“La Punta de Mujeres”
Day 3 & 4:
So yesterday we left our temporary digs for our permanent residence…”The Shack”. The Shack is about 6 steps from the beach, and well quite literally, it’s a shack. There are two beds with mosquito netting, two fans and two “windows” with no screens, which we can open or close. The bathroom is outside. We have no sink inside, just a minifridge and a little burner. It’s PERFECT. It gets a great breeze because we are right on the ocean. I bargained the price down as low as the owner would go, to $30 a night. This is the cheapest place in town by far. Love it. After we moved in we went out with Bill to a place just a walk down the beach. We had chile rellanos for dinner with him and a group of his friends. A good group of people. It was Izzie’s birthday, so we all had shots of tequila. Woohooo! Woke up to a chilly morning…I’m glad that they gave us heavy covers. Put on my sweatshirt and sipped coffee outside with Miss JamD, just barely able to see the waves through the darkness. 7:15am the sun began to peek through, enough so that we could see the waves. We were waxed up and in the water a little after 7:30. Now, I’ve been asked by several people to leave this town unnamed – they’ve specifically asked me not to mention it on my blog. So, I’ll call it “La Punta de Mujeres” or for short, HEAVEN. For the 3rd day in a row I surfed with just under 20 women in the water. It’s amazing. There is a big group from California, ranging from their 30’s to 60’s, all traveling with Linda Benson. Linda is 66 years old and still shines. She paved the way for women’s surfing, among her many accomplishments was being the first female to surf Waiemea in Hawaii. All the women traveling with her are really fantastic surfers, which is great – because it’s raising the bar for everyone in the water. We are all pushing each other and encouraging one another. One of the Cali crew is Heather. A mother of two, soul surfer, smile from ear to ear. She’s wonderful. Heather is a filmmaker, and has be in and produced several films about surfing, more specifically – women’s surfing. This break has been a bit crowded with crews of people, but everyone is amazingly friendly and there is a great rotation in the water. The waves just fire through, constantly. To paddle back out takes a good 5 minutes, so it keeps the lineup flowing. My body was exhausted from the two days prior, but you wouldn’t know it by watching me. I surfed for FIVE hours today – nonstop. No breaks, no lulls…constant surfing. I was being hooted into waves by the famous Linda Benson, smiling from ear to ear as I’d pull into a perfect wave, solid overhead, and hang five for what seemed to be miles on end. We were joking and calling it “Ladies Point”, but really…this spot is Heaven. Well, my exact heaven would be a RIGHT point break as opposed to a left, and it would have a hummus + pita shack on the beach – but those minor details aside, this is as close to heaven as I’ve ever been. Another favorite of mine in the lineup is Robert. Robert is 51 years old, from California, and he has a great, smooth style. He is a 6’2” black man, and with that comes a thousand funny jokes, all made by him. Just a good guy, with a good vibe….not afraid to be surrounded in the lineup by a ton of girls who are ripping it up. Following this mornings surf was some kickass oatmeal and then some R&R in the hammocks hanging outside our house. This is so very different from Oeste, but in a way that is perfect for me right now. I’m really excited to spend some more time here and meet some more of these outstanding people. Bah, if anybody asks….I’m in HEAVEN.