Today I surfed big waves.
I had the wipeout of the day...I air-dropped 8 feet, landed with one foot on my board, didn't catch my balance quick enough - so the wave swept me up, threw me over the falls, and drug me about 200 yards underwater.
I missed the wave of the day. I was too far outside, too far by about 2 paddles. I missed a 15 foot wave. Damnit. Maybe it was a blessing in disguise?
I also had the best waves of the day. Longest, biggest, and best.
Goddamn, I love Costa Rica.