not all who wander are lost.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

La Ola Del Dio es MIO

We woke up at 5am for an early morning surf.
The swell has been firing lately.
Overhead, fast, heavy, fun beachbreak.
This morning I took off on the bomb set. And made it.
Solid 8 foot (paulie and franklin said 8 to 10, so ill downplay and say 8).
I took off deep, pulled in, and fired across the wave, hearing the intensity of the wave inches behind me.

I love surfing. I want to surf all day every day.

Pura Vida.

ps...MOM IS HERE: i almost fell over when i saw her yesterday. so did dad.what a surprise!! christ almighty.


  1. it would be so nice to be in sunshine. sooooo nice....

  2. your description of that wave sounds like a wet dream i had last night