not all who wander are lost.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Buckled Boards

Buckled Boards
Esterillos, Costa Rica 4pm, jan 4th:

This morning we made the 20 minute walk to La Lecheria as the sun rose. It was big. The wave was about 300 yards out, but still, from the beach you could tell that these waves were no joke. We paddled out through the channel - a very long paddle through the channel. The waves were anywhere from 6-8' (with 8 to 10' faces) and the bombing sets that rolled through were about 8-10', some with 12 foot faces. I had some big waves today, and some very late takeoffs. I didn't fall once. Not once. I stuck every drop in and was screaming across the face of every wave. You never knew if someone survived or not until them came shooting over the back of the wave - because people were disappearing behind a wall of water. Surfing with us today was Cam, Shawn, Ben, Adam, Shannon, one local guy, and Fred on a kayak. Cam buckled his longboard on the first wave and had to get out of the water. Shannon buckled his longboard on his 3rd wave...he had to get out. We all took turns hooting and hollering eachother into these fabulous waves, and oooooing and ahhhhhhing as we watched people get creamed. I had to break into my "death paddle" twice. The death paddle is when I muster every bit of strength that is in my body, every bit from every part of my being, and paddle like hell. Paddling for my life -- because there is a set covering the horizon and coming for me. I couldn't paddle this fast if I tried, only when the 'death paddle' is truly needed. The boys laughed when they heard about my death paddle, but when a huge set came out the back and I was 70 yards past everyone as they got clobbered, the laughing ended. Ha. Ha. Ha muthafuckas.

A few hours later, once we had beaten our bodies to oblivion, we got out of the water and walked down the beach - stumbling into Margaritas to reminesce over our awesome waves, and (their) disasterous wipeouts. Margarita's is totally cool. It is a womans house (margarita) and you just post up in her back yard at this little table she has on the porch, and she brings you out coffee and juice. You don't get to order here - there is no menu. You get what she is cooking, for 1500 colones ( a whopping 3 dollars, bevs and all). We got a heaping pile of gallo de pinto (rice and beans), scrambled eggs, and fried plantains. MmMmM and for only 3 bucks. Authentic.

Got back and have had no desire to do anything. None of us want to go for another surf. We don't want to swim, or dance or play! haha. We did play a very intense round of Dominoes ( i lost damnit), but the stress of it wore us all out so we took naps. Adam, Ben, Shawn and I are heading to Jaco in a bit for some sushi @ TSNAMI SUSHI - supposedly the BEST, not just in town, but in all of Costa Rica. I looked it up online and a ton of travelers have given it rave reviews on their blogs and on travel sites.

The swell is supposed to pick up a little more tomorrow, so I'm looking forward to another surf at La Lecheria before heading to Dominical. PS: It's called Lecheria because the little house that sits out front of the break, the only house around, used to be a dairy farm.

I will post some pictures from Soda Mary, and a couple from our SODA MARY SOCIAL (Hootenany) last night. (computers acting up now, ill have to upload later) Shannon on violin and guitar, me on guitar and vocals, and mike - fabulous mike - on harmonicas. We had too much fun and put on a show for many people from ESterillos. I even sold 5 cds, and made some money in the love bucket!!

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